Ilora Retreats Mara

Ilora Retreats sits north of the Talek, in the central Masai Mara, on thirty acres of which ninety-five per cent is left as it was — indigenous bushland, with resident lion prides moving within sight of the tents. There are fourteen suites and no more than thirty-five guests, and no suite looks onto another: each is set deep in the bush and built of canvas and timber. Inside there is a large bed turned towards the wilderness, a writing desk, a bathtub and a multi-jet shower, binoculars, a safe, and a telephone that reaches the butler; the minibar holds drinking water, tea and coffee, local spirits and soft drinks, and safari ponchos are provided for cold mornings. Each suite has its own veranda with recliners, and can be made up as a king or a twin, with an extra bed on request. The camp runs entirely on solar power, and the water from every tap is purified on site by reverse osmosis.

The dining tent has one wall open to the bush, and full board is included. There is an organic garden inside the camp: about half of what is served is picked the same morning, and bread, yoghurt and ice cream are made on the premises. Meals also move around — bush breakfast during the morning drive, the chef's foraged lunch, dinner set out in the open under lanterns with an occasional Maasai performance, a Koroga where guests cook with the chef around the fire, and the Bahati bar. Between drives there is a pool, a spa, a library, a sky deck, a photo lounge with two editing stations, and a gallery of fifty-six photographs taken by the founder, a wildlife photographer. On clear nights a king bed can be made up on the sky deck, at an extra charge, and there is an observatory with two telescopes. Game drives go out twice a day in a private vehicle with a Maasai guide; balloon flights, bird walks, bush walks and a photo safari with the resident photographer are also arranged, along with a Maasai naming ceremony and a Junior Rangers programme for children.

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